Is a Second Fish Finder at the Bow Worth It?
You've got a fish finder at the console. It works well, you know how to read it, and you've caught plenty of fish using it. Now you're spending more time at the bow — running the trolling motor, casting to structure, fishing forward-facing sonar — and you're walking back to the console every time you need to check sonar or set a waypoint. Is a second fish finder at the bow worth the investment?
For many anglers, the answer is a clear yes — but the value depends entirely on how you fish and what you're running at the console. This guide breaks down the scenarios where a bow display pays off and where it's an expensive convenience.
When a Bow Fish Finder Is Worth It
You Fish from the Bow Most of the Day
If your primary fishing position is the front deck — running a trolling motor, casting to banks and structure, working a pattern — a bow-mounted display puts sonar information right where you're looking. You can see depth changes, mark waypoints, spot fish, and monitor your trolling motor heading without turning away from your fishing. The time savings add up over a full day, and the reduced distraction from walking back to check the console keeps you focused on the water.
You Run Forward-Facing Sonar
FFS demands constant screen attention. You're watching fish react to your lure in real time, making micro-adjustments to your presentation based on what you see on screen. Having the FFS display at the bow — where you're standing with rod in hand — means you can watch the screen and fish simultaneously without the physical disconnect of the display being 12 feet behind you at the console.
Many serious FFS anglers dedicate the bow display exclusively to live sonar (LiveScope, ActiveTarget, MEGA Live) and use the console display for traditional CHIRP, side imaging, and navigation. This dual-display approach gives you the best of both worlds without sacrificing screen real estate on either end.
You Fish Tournaments
Tournament efficiency is measured in minutes. Every walk to the console to check a waypoint, adjust sonar settings, or verify depth is time not spent with a bait in the water. Tournament anglers routinely run two or three displays — one or two at the bow (often one for FFS and one for traditional sonar/mapping) and one at the console for navigation and big-picture awareness.
When It's Not Worth It
You Fish Alone From the Console
Solo anglers who primarily run and gun from the driver's seat — stopping on spots, casting from the console position, moving to the next spot — get limited value from a bow display. Your existing console unit is right in front of you. Adding a bow display means buying a second screen you'll rarely look at.
You Fish Primarily in Open Water
Trolling, drifting, and open-water jigging are console-centric activities. The boat's position and direction are controlled from the helm, and sonar information at the console is sufficient. A bow display adds little value when you're already managing everything from one position.
Your Budget Is Better Spent Elsewhere
A bow fish finder setup — display, mount, wiring, and potentially a networking switch — can cost nearly as much as the console unit itself. If your console fish finder is outdated, that budget might serve you better as a single high-quality upgrade at the console rather than a second mid-range screen at the bow.
Networking vs. Standalone
If you add a bow display from the same brand as your console, networking them together provides significant advantages. Shared sonar data means your transom transducer feeds sonar to both the console and bow displays — no second transducer needed. Shared waypoints mean anything you mark at either end appears on both screens instantly. Shared settings simplify configuration.
A standalone bow display (different brand or unnetworked) works fine as an independent unit. You'll need a separate transducer for the bow display (often a trolling motor-mounted unit, which provides clean-water sonar from the bow). The two displays don't share data, so you'll mark waypoints separately on each, but the sonar at both positions is fully functional.
For a deeper look at networking your electronics, see our fish finder networking guide.
What to Buy for the Bow
The bow display doesn't need to match your console unit in size or capability. A 7 to 9-inch display with CHIRP and GPS is sufficient for most bow fishing applications. If you're running FFS, the bow display should be large enough to interpret live sonar comfortably — 9 inches is the practical minimum for FFS, with 10-12 inches preferred by anglers who spend hours watching the screen.
Mounting is critical. The bow is a high-abuse area — rod butts hit the screen, fish flop against it, and trolling motor stowage sends vibrations through anything mounted nearby. Use a recessed gimbal mount or a robust ram-style mount that holds the display securely and positions it where you can see it from your normal casting stance. Some anglers mount the bow display on a quick-release bracket so it can be removed during rough runs or when the trolling motor is stowed for open-water travel.
Is It Worth It?
If you spend more than half your fishing time at the bow — running a trolling motor, fishing forward-facing sonar, or casting to structure — a second display at the bow is one of the highest-value electronics upgrades you can make. If you primarily fish from the console or are on a tight budget, invest in a single excellent display at the helm first and add the bow setup when your fishing style demands it.