Guide

Do You Need a Second Battery Bank for Trolling Motor + Electronics?

Updated July 2026 · FishFinders.co Editorial

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Whether you need a separate battery bank for your trolling motor electronics is a common question — specifically whether running fish finders and other electronics off the trolling motor battery causes problems. Here's the practical answer.

The One-Battery Setup: When It Works

Running your fish finder from the same battery as the trolling motor works in one scenario: small motors (12V, under 50 lb thrust) on small boats where current draw is modest and the battery is large enough to handle both loads comfortably. A 100Ah AGM running a 12V trolling motor at 30–40% throttle and a 5-inch fish finder draws approximately 10–15A total. That's 6–8 hours of usable run time — adequate for most day trips.

When You Need Separate Batteries

24V or 36V trolling motor systems: These systems use two or three 12V batteries in series. Your fish finder runs on 12V — you tap off one battery in the bank, which draws that battery down faster than the others and unbalances the series bank. The correct solution is a dedicated 12V electronics battery separate from the trolling motor bank.

Heavy electronics loads: Live sonar systems (LiveScope, MEGA Live) draw an additional 2–3A on top of the head unit. If you're running a head unit + live sonar + chartplotter + AIS + VHF radio, your electronics draw may be 5–10A continuously. A separate electronics battery isolates this load from the motor and prevents voltage sag from the motor from corrupting sonar returns.

Long days (8+ hours): Battery management becomes important on full-day tournaments or extended fishing trips. A dedicated electronics battery that you can monitor independently is simpler to manage than trying to estimate remaining capacity across a combined load.

Battery Isolator vs ACR

If you want both batteries to charge from the same source (alternator or charger), use a battery isolator (diode-based) or an ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) that connects both banks for charging but isolates them during use. The ACR is the cleaner marine solution — it automatically connects the banks when charging and separates them when charging stops, so a fully discharged trolling motor bank can't drain the electronics bank.

Battery ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) $

Connects multiple battery banks for simultaneous charging from one source (alternator or charger) while automatically isolating them during use. The standard solution for dual-battery marine setups.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I power my fish finder from my trolling motor battery?

For 12V single-battery systems: yes, with a dedicated electronics fuse. For 24V/36V series banks: tap only from a single 12V battery in the bank for electronics — but understand this unbalances the bank over time. A separate 12V electronics battery is cleaner for any 24V+ system.

What size battery do I need for fish finders only?

A 20–35Ah 12V battery runs a full electronics suite (7-inch head unit + chartplotter + VHF + AIS) for 8–12 hours. A 12Ah battery runs a single 5-inch head unit for 8–10 hours. Scale based on your specific electronics draw and expected day length.

Is a lithium battery worth it for marine electronics?

For the main electronics battery: possibly — lithium's lighter weight and flat discharge curve (maintains voltage longer) are real benefits. For the trolling motor bank: the cost premium is more clearly justified by the significantly greater weight savings on the heavier motor batteries. Electronics batteries in the 20–35Ah range are less compelling candidates for the lithium premium.